CUTTING REMARKS – JCK
Tradition Meets Technology: Where the Jewelry Industry Goes from Here
Rob Bates, New Director at JCK, has his ear to the ground on the latest happenings in our industry, whether it is synthetic diamonds, digital grading and cutting, tracking the source of diamonds and colored gemstones, or world events that help shape the business climate. This year’s Keynote Address by Rob Bates will delve into the ways in which technology is affecting the way we do business on a macro level, and where we are headed as an industry.
Rob Bates is news director of JCK. He has won numerous editorial awards, including two prestigious Neal Awards for his blog in 2007 and 2011, five Eddies from Folio magazine, the Jewelers of America GEM Award for Media Excellence and the American Gem Society’s Triple Zero Award for industry service. He has been interviewed by CNN, NPR, The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, and numerous other places.
NANZ AALUND ART JEWELRY
GOLDSMITH, AUTHOR, EDUCATOR
In this presentation I will be discussing long-term lifestyle trends, which with analysis can provide insights to future design, marketing, and shopping trends in the jewelry business. I will also differentiate between what is a trend and what should be considered a fad or fashion. While fashion is one aspect that impacts jewelry design and consumption, jewelry as a product of self-identification responds to broader, long-term societal meanings and influences. With early analysis of lifestyle trend shifts, jewelry designers, manufacturers and retailers can provide clients with the products they desire at the beginning of the products lifespan.
Nanz’s wide ranging career has included teaching jewelry arts at the University of Washington and the Art Institute of Seattle, design and consulting for Nordstrom, Rudolf Erdel, Neiman Marcus, and Tiffany & Co., among others; serving as associate editor for ‘Art Jewelry’ magazine; and creating her own series of jewelry technique instructional DVDs. She has won multiple professional jewelry design awards including two-time recipient of DeBeers Diamonds Today Awards, Platinum International Awards, American Pearl Awards, Saul Bell Finalist Awards, and an AGTA Spectrum Award, among others. She holds an M.F.A. in Jewelry/Metals from the University of Washington and an M.Ed. in College and Technical Teaching Curriculum (CTTC) from Western Washington University.
JEWELRY TECHNICAL SUPPORT
Technological changes are not a new phenomenon. The greatest difference today is how fast these changes occur, as well as how quickly these changes are adopted and adapted into the maker’s palette. As makers, we are pressed with meeting the production expectations of our marketplace while trying to remain true to our creative vision and spirit. In this paper, we will discuss how to keep the “heart and soul” in your jewelry while using modern technology to produce your designs.
Scott Bradford is an expert in casting, rapid-prototyping and CAD design, watchmaking, gemology, as well as general bench, fabrication and repair practices. In his time working with rapid prototyping machines, he’s been able to complete extensive research in successfully casting with 3D-printed resins.
Since joining Rio’s Jewelry Tech Team, Scott Bradford has enjoyed being able to work with such a diverse community of jewelers. “Whether they are a beginner or a veteran of the industry, we share a common passion and it’s a great opportunity to learn from one another,” he says. “It’s been an amazing experience to be a part of such a talented and knowledgeable team from so many different backgrounds.”
Scott’s jewelry experience began with some beginner classes at Rio Grande, later attending the Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology in Paris, TX, where he received training in jewelry fabrication, repair, casting, stone-setting, watchmaking, gemology, and CAD/CAM. He was the winner of the Stuller Award for Excellence and became certified with the Jewelers of America as a Certified Bench Jeweler. Scott then moved to Dallas, TX, where he worked making high-end custom jewelry, servicing and repairing mechanical watches, running a casting department, conducting stone setting and repair, fabrication, and utilizing rapid-prototyping technologies and computer-aided design software to create new and interesting designs. He has extensively researched and tested the casting of 3D-printed resins throughout the industry, and shared his knowledge with anyone that needed it. Since joining the Rio Grande Tech Team in August 2015, he has trained with a large number of industry experts in areas like engraving with Sam Alfano, enameling with Ricky Frank, mokume gane with Jim Binnion and Chris Ploof, and metal-forming with Bill Fretz, just to name a few.
CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER
LINKEDIN – MARK HANNA
TrustChain Overview: This collaboration is a tremendous game changer for the jewelry industry. Trustchain™ will have a transformational effect on the gold and diamond industry when paired with a collaboration among responsible and ethical organizations across the jewelry industry, supported by governance and a code of conduct. Richline and IBM, together with a consortium of leading diamond and jewellery companies from around the world, announced this unique blockchain collaboration in April. This blockchain collaboration, utilizing IBM’s advanced technology solution, will track and authenticate diamonds, precious metals and jewelry at all stages of the global supply chain, from the mine to the retailer. This is a unique collaboration that also leverages UL , independent third party verification, together with four diamond and jewelry companies that represent the entire supply chain: Rio Tinto Diamonds (diamond supplier for Proof of Concept only), Leach Garner (precious metals supplier), Asahi Refinery (precious metal refinery), Helzberg (US jewelry retailer) and the Richline Group (global jewelry manufacturer). The True Key: Responsible organizations and people are the foundation and this process is the verification. Trustchain™ diamond and jewelry collaborators already employ best practice in management of their supply chains, with Trustchain™ linking the parties together to provide a new level of assurance to consumers regarding the traceability of their jewelry and trust that they know where their product has come from. And, the Trustchain™ collaboration has been positioned to engage with the wider industry on a solution that will improve efficiency, transparency and trust in managing the movement of diamonds and precious metals.
Mark is Chief Marketing Officer of Richline Group, Inc., a Berkshire Hathaway Company. After graduating NYU Stern with an MBA in Marketing, he began his 46 years in the jewelry industry. He has had experience in all facets of management, manufacturing, marketing, sales and corporate social responsibility. Prior to this position, he has served as a managing executive for Bel-Oro, Michael Anthony Jewelers and Leach & Garner. In 2012, he was honored as one of US’s top 200 CMOs and again in 2015 as CMO of the Year, Corporate Social Responsibility, by the CMO Club. Mark is an active speaker and advocate on responsible issues and innovation for the industry. He, additionally, serves as a board member of Special Olympics, USWTA and the Responsible Jewellery Council plus is an active member and contributor to Manufacturing Jewelers Association and the CMO Club.
BIRMINGHAM CITY UNIVERSITY
As public institutions museums have to negotiate a delicate balancing act; a responsibility to protect and preserve our cultural heritage, while at the same time, provide access to scholars and members of the public. One may consider these to be incompatible demands. However with a respect for our heritage and an eye to innovation a blended approach of traditional and digital technologies is providing solutions and opportunities for the museum sector. The Cheapside Hoard is a fragile collection of precious jewels, buried and forgotten in the City of London during the 17th Century. The Museum of London (custodians of the hoard) sought to answer a simple, but reoccurring question – How were these jewels made? A collaborative project between and the School of Jewelry, Birmingham City University and the Museum of London developed. This session will focus on one artifact from the hoard, the Pearl Dropper – a delicate pendent like structure of fine gold wires, pearls and enamels. Analysis of the artifact through the witness marks of manufacturing (tool marks, striations, techniques) provided the data to create a digital model. Translating that data into the tangible required a number of 3D sintering models, each one a step in refine our understanding of the interface between CAD, sintering and post-processing. As crafts people our engagement with metals is framed by our understanding and experience of processing materials. Post processing this sintered metal artifact was a learning curve of surprises, misunderstanding, tenacity and eventual success. The recreated artifacts have become essential publicly facing handling exhibits with a please touch policy, allowing them to be worn, touched and engaged with as these jewels would have been 400 years ago.
Dr. Ann-Marie Carey is an Associate Professor in the School of Jewellery, Birmingham City University. She has worked with museums in London, Birmingham and Cambridge to create replicas of the Cheapside Hoard, art-nouveau jewels and Baskerville punches respectively. Working within heritage teams Carey’s craftsmanship brings valuable insight to the interpretation of precious metal artifacts. Carey combines the traditional craftsmanship skills of goldsmithing with advances in laser technology, CAD and sintering to present new perspectives of understanding, and novel approaches to the development of the craft. This approach has developed pioneering methodologies in how objects are created and understood. The duality of hand skills and advanced technology is a common thread throughout her research.
One of the most challenging aspects in the merging of craft and technology can be found in the casting of digital models. Today, there are numerous 3D printing machines and materials on the market from which to choose. They all have unique attributes that must be well understood in order to assure high quality castings. Our panel of casting experts will share their knowledge and experience on best practices to achieve the quality you need from design to the bench.
Kevin Abernathy is a consultant with over 30 years of expertise in high level CAD/CAM and Additive Manufacturing (3D Printing) technologies. Abernathy spent part of his career in the research and development division of the Jostens Corporation, a company specializing in the manufacture of high-volume customized karat gold products for the collegiate and professional athletic markets. His deep interest and passion for next generation CAD/CAM and Additive Manufacturing technologies has driven him to become a leader and a mentor in the field. Over the span of his career, he has provided design and consulting services for a broad spectrum of companies and industries. He is a co-applicant on several patents relating to the use of additive manufacturing in jewelry production.
JAMES BINNION METAL ARTS LLC
Jim’s love of craft started in his grandmother’s home. A furniture maker and weaver, she inspired him to use his creative talents, which he’s been doing for more than 30 years as a jeweler. Though he learned jewelry basics in high school, Jim has spent his entire adult life expanding his knowledge of jewelry making. Jim was always drawn to the beauty and workmanship of Japanese craft. And once he saw mokume gane for the first time in the early 1980s, he knew he would make mokume gane; he even pioneered a technique for making electric kiln-fired mokume gane. In 1991, Jim established James Binnion Metal Arts (JBMA), working exclusively in mokume. He has consulted and collaborated with other mokume gane artists and metallurgists to develop his theoretical and practical knowledge of metallurgy. Today, this metalsmith, engineer and periodic beer-maker continues to refine his process and designs while also passing on the knowledge he’s gained to the next generation of jewelers.
Technology has long played a critical role in transforming work, communities and the economy. The jewelry industry is aware that society, our target markets, and consumer behavior are changing, but this awareness has not yet resulted in significant changes in marketing and messaging strategies within the jewelry industry. Marketing is only successful when steeped in relevance, so today’s marketing dollars are largely wasted. In this talk, Andrea Hill will examine these changes from the consumer behavioral perspective, which is the opposite of our usual approach of looking at change from the perspective of negative business results. By framing the issues in this way, she will shed light on not only what jewelry businesses must do to compete in this new reality, but why each change matters. This approach facilitates addressing changes in consumer behavior from a place of deep understanding, which will allow marketers to move beyond basic tactical planning and into strategic marketing.
Andrea Hill owns Hill Management Group LLC (which includes the brands StrategyWerx, MentorWerx, and WerxMarketing), providing strategic consulting, professional development, branding, and marketing services to small and mid-sized businesses. With 33 years of professional experience as the CEO and/or president of start-up through mid-sized companies, she has demonstrated serial success in leading companies through rapid and profitable growth. She has been the CEO of Rio Grande, one of the world’s largest providers of jewelry-making supplies; the president of international clothing manufacturer and direct marketer Fulcrum Direct/After the Stork; president of marketing services firm Anthill Marketing; and a founding senior executive of Playboy’s direct marketing catalog operations in music and video. Her forward-looking orientation and deep background in marketing technology and data make her business perspective particularly useful during this time of significant business transition.
NORTH BENNETT STREET SCHOOL
Bench Demonstration & Educational Session
Ann has a BFA in Metalsmithing and Jewelry and Ceramics from the Maine College of Art and is a graduate of NBSS and the Department Head. She was a finalist in the gold and platinum category of the 2010 Saul Bell Awards. She works on one-of-a-kind and limited production jewelry as a principal goldsmith and designer at Flying Marquis Studio in Leominster, MA. Ann also writes, lectures, and judges for the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America (MJSA) and Jewelry Artist. She is the technical co-editor of the MJSA book Secret Shop Weapons, and is featured in an instructional DVD produced by Lapidary Journal.